Features — October 2025

Essays | Themes | Research

on the runway Battle of Versailles

Battle of Versailles

Backstage at the Battle:
A Front-row Seat to Fashion History

–— Susan Goodwin

With a forward by Google Gemini

Forward

The “Battle of Versailles” was a landmark fashion event held on November 28, 1973, at the Palace of Versailles in France. Conceived as a charity fundraiser to help restore the decaying palace, it became a pivotal moment in fashion history, pitting five prominent French designers against five new-wave American designers in a friendly, yet highly competitive, showdown.

Circumstances and Context

By the early 1970s, the Palace of Versailles was in a state of disrepair. The French government’s budget was insufficient for the extensive renovations needed to maintain the historic site. To address this, Gérald Van der Kemp, the curator of the palace, and fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert organized a gala event to raise money. Lambert, founder of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), saw the event as a unique opportunity to showcase American design talent on an international stage, which had long been overshadowed by the established French haute couture.

The show was structured as a fashion battle, with each side presenting its collection. The French were expected to dominate, but the Americans, with a revolutionary approach, stole the show.

Designers and Models

French Designers
American Designers

The American designers were accompanied by a groundbreaking group of models, many of whom were Black. This was a radical move at the time and a stark contrast to the predominantly white models of French couture. The American models were renowned for their vibrant energy, personality, and expressive movements on the runway.

Notable Models

The Show and Its Impact

The French designers presented a traditional, elaborate, and formal haute couture show with complex sets and orchestras. The American designers, on the other hand, had minimal sets and relied on a more dynamic, theatrical presentation. They used a lively soundtrack and their models danced, strutted, and interacted with the audience, showcasing a new, modern, and ready-to-wear aesthetic.

Stephen Burrows, in particular, captivated the audience with his vibrant, fluid designs and the electric energy of his models. The American presentation was seen as fresh, modern, and youthful, while the French show appeared dated and stuffy. This event is widely credited with establishing American fashion on the global stage and breaking down racial barriers in the fashion industry.

The event was a major social affair, with a star-studded guest list that included royalty, celebrities, and socialites from around the world. Notable attendees and participants included: Princess Grace of Monaco, the Duchess of Windsor, Liza Minnelli (as performer for the American presentation), Josephine Baker (performer for the French presentation), Andy Warhol and Rudolf Nureyev.

While the exact amount raised at the 1973 event is not widely published, it was a significant sum that went towards the restoration of the palace. It’s important to note, however, that the Battle of Versailles was just one of many fundraising efforts. The Palace of Versailles has relied on private patronage and philanthropic efforts for many years, with major contributions from American philanthropists.

And now, read Susan Goodwin’s personal account of the event.

American models at Battle of Versailles
The American models in a group pose

Backstage at the Battle: A Front-row Seat to Fashion History

—Susan Goodwin

Now, here is my story, 52 years later, from the perspective of a student in Paris who was part of this historical event. In 1973 and 1974 there was no internet, no text messaging, no smart phones, no email. The expression online did not exist. As graduate students at New York University in Paris, all we had to keep us up-to-date were the BBC and the International Herald Tribune. French newspapers were still a bit advanced for us. My two roommates and I had no idea we would be participating in what later would be known as The Battle of Versailles.

After teaching French for several years, I made a career change. I remembered with great fondness the year I lived in Paris but never actually looked up anything about what now is called The Battle of Versailles until I started teaching French for OLLI. I remembered this event and looked it up on YouTube. To my astonishment there were several videos, interviews with the remaining models who are still living and Steven Burrows, who is the only designer still living. Even books had been written about this event!

A friend and I who both studied French at the University of Colorado decided to enroll in New York University’s graduate program in Paris. I moved to Paris in September 1973. My roommate, however, had moved to Paris in the summer to take a course. She rented a room in a building where an expat, Harold, from the United States had been living for years. They became friends and stayed in touch after she moved into an apartment with another American student and me.

In November, 1973, she was contacted by Harold with a proposal for a short-term job for us. The top American designers were coming to Paris for the first time for what was called a fundraiser with the top French designers. The fundraiser was to help with the restoration of the Palace of Versailles, which had fallen into disrepair. The fashion show turned out to be a competition. And this fundraiser turned out to be an historical event that over the last 52 years has been termed the Battle of Versailles.

Harold, my roommate’s friend, was a friend of the American designer Anne Klein. Anne had contacted Harold to ask if he could find three American girls to dress and undress her models for the show. It was important that her models could communicate in American English with the girls that dressed them. Harold contacted Jessica and we were hired to work for Anne Klein for three days.

I remember taking the train in the afternoon to the Palace of Versailles from Avenue Foch where we had been living. The ride was probably twenty-five minutes from our apartment. It was chilly and gray, and when we got to the palace, there was no heat in it. There was no way to get something hot to drink to warm up. The French were not very accommodating to their American guests, and they used the better part of the day to practice. The Americans also had some challenges in that any backdrops or scenes that had been created for them could not be used, because they were developed using inches instead of metric measurements. The Americans brought their own music and — believe it or not — used a cassette player hooked up to speakers.

The anxiety was very high; there seemed to be a lot of disorganization, and at one point one of the American designers dropped out, but did return the next day.

My two friends and I were tasked with dressing and accessorizing the models for an Anne Klein fashion show. Our responsibilities included ensuring that the models were dressed, undressed, and then redressed efficiently, while also adding earrings and other accessories to complete their looks. The atmosphere was charged with excitement and a hint of anxiety. The models were impressively tall, standing at heights of 5’10” to 6′, which posed an additional challenge, given that the three of us were around 5’4″. I recall in my haste, I unfortunately overlooked adding earrings to one of my models, yet she still looked sensational.

The show featured Barry White’s Love’s Theme from the Love Unlimited album, which filled the historic theater with exhilarating energy. We felt immense pride in our models as they captivated the audience. While the French models exhibited a more traditional and conservative demeanor, the American models exuded high energy, grace, and confidence as they strode across the stage. The French audience was visibly impressed, displaying an enthusiasm that contrasted with their typically reserved character. Attendees included members of European aristocracy, who stood, tossed their programs into the air, and applauded in approval. The response to our American models was unprecedented, challenging the conservative expectations often associated with French fashion. We felt an overwhelming sense of pride as the Americans claimed their rightful place in the fashion industry.

From stage wings we were able to watch world famous performers, such as Rudolph Nureyev, Josephine Baker and Liza Minnelli. Liza Minnelli was only five years older than we were, so we met with her and hung out in her dressing room. In essence she was just another young person who was nervous before she had to go on stage. Her performance of the title number from Cabaret, as well as her mother, Judy Garland‘s song, Over the Rainbow, brought the house down.

Liza and models perform Cabaret
Liza and models perform Cabaret

We worked for three days, and then resumed our lives in Paris never really knowing what historical impact this would have. We were able to find a short article in the American Herald Tribune and were thrilled that it had hit the newspapers. Fifty-two years went by before I realized that so much information about this event can now be found on the Internet.

After the event we found our way to found Anne Klein‘s hotel address and showed up at her door to be paid the agreed-upon $300. I recently learned that $300 in 1973 would be equivalent to approximately $2500 today. A few months later, Anne Klein passed away from cancer. This was her last major contribution to the world of fashion and design.

We were just kids and so lucky to have the opportunity to study French in Paris in 1973. This event was a cultural watershed moment for the American fashion design industry.

For a deeper dive into this event, you can access a one-hour 2016 documentary narrated by Stanley Tucci, including interviews of models and surviving designers as well as an indepth article written by model, Pat Cleveland. — Editor


Susan Goodwin

Susan Goodwin’s lifelong relationship with the French language and culture led her to major in French at the University of Colorado, and continued during several periods of study in Bordeaux, France and in Paris, where she ultimately earned a master’s in French Language through NYU. After teaching French in secondary school and adult education programs for several years, she transitioned to a second career in management with CIGNA Healthcare. Susan has traveled extensively, often returning to France, including a memorable 50-year reunion with former classmates from Bordeaux. Susan teaches French language and culture for OLLI, finding inspiration in encouraging others to embrace new languages and experiences.

One response to “Features — October 2025”
  1. ann s

    What a fantastic story of a long-ago time when being young was all there was to be.

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